Latest News

  • New Meeting Format

    We’ve changed the format of our General meetings to include regular guest speakers and a Club Profile by one of our delegates about their club. All motorcyclists are welcome to attend the MCC's...

  • Helmet Laws

    On 11th December 2015 the use of helmets meeting International Helmet standard UN ECE 22.05 became legal for use in NSW. For more information click here

  • Cameras on Helmets

    The use of cameras on motorcycle helmets is now legal in the ACT provided that the mount is “frangible”. ACT Legislative Instrument The NSW Centre for Road Safety is undertaking another round of...

  • Increased Penalties for Phone Use While Driving

    Mobile phone offences have been added to double demerit periods. Also, an additional demerit point will be added to the existing standard penalty of three points. For more info Know The Rules

  • Historic Registration Rules

    On 4th September 2015 Duncan Gay, the Minister for Roads announced a new additional Historic Registration scheme (Classic Vehicle Scheme) to run along side the existing scheme. Download from the link ...

  • Putty Road and Oxley Highway Emergency Phone Locations

    The MCC has put together a pamphlet outlining the location of Emergency Phones along the Putty Road. A pamphlet is in preparation for the recently installed phones on the Oxley Highway. For more...

  • Lane Filtering legalised

    On 1st July 2014, lane filtering was legalised in NSW. The MCC of NSW has fought for this legalisation for many years. For more details click here

  • About M.A.R.I.

    A brief history of M.A.R.I.

Throttle Control

Throttle control
From the tip-in point, keep the throttle just open. This maintains the bike in a balanced attitude, with the weight evenly distributed across both wheels.

WHY is this important? Because tyres only have a limited amount of grip, which can used for cornering, OR for braking. To share tyre grip between cornering AND braking, places the tyres at their maximum stress and you may pass their limits of grip. Don’t gripe if grip gives up in this situation - you made it happen.

Also, when leaning over, the rolling radius of the tyres reduces, as the contact patch moves toward the tyre edge. This makes the bike slow down a touch, throwing a little weight forward, so you need to compensate for this by making the engine speed up a little and take that slight extra weight off the front end. You can develop a fine edge of feel for grip and suspension if you do this. You can’t if you don’t.

Tipping in and then backing off the throttle, causes the bike to “dive” on its front-end, applying large forces to the tyre contact
patch.
If the tyre is already fully loaded trying to turn the bike (especially if going in “hot”), then you may exceed the limit and the tyre may slide, particularly if the road surface is damaged, with bumps in the curve or tar waves from trucks braking or turning. Beware the curve in the bottom of a dip. The answer is in balancing the front and rear end tyre loads, smooth throttle, correct road position and of course, an appropriate speed for the vision distance available.

On exit, light up the throttle as much as the grip on the rear and the distance in front allows. (oh yeah, and your license)

This all applies equally to wet weather riding. Same skill set. Its just that the total grip of the tyres is now less than in the dry. Also applies to riding on gravel. In all cases, lumps n bumps must be factored into the corner plan.

A good rider, by using the throttle well, can balance the loads on the their tyre contact patches and can ride across some pretty ugly road surface without a problem, as they are allowing both tyres and suspension to work at their optimum.

Suspension movements are important here. We are not looking at the gross movements and have made an assumption that your bike is correctly adjusted, so it doesn't dive or squat unduly.

Incorrect suspension adjustment can lead to changes in steering geometry in mid corner, as one end is not balanced with the other. Ths may be a soggy front end leading to the bike oversteering, or a soggy rear causing understeer or reduced cornering clearance (often with a pillion).

If you aren't sure, seek professional advice.
No, not from the bloke at the pub.

Exercise 1
Countersteering Tips
Exercise 2